Põhjala and Telliskivi breweries: a visitor's guide

Telliskivi Creative City: Tallinn’s beer district

Telliskivi Creative City occupies a set of converted early 20th-century railway workshops north-west of Old Town. What was once a working industrial complex is now Tallinn’s most concentrated area for craft beer, independent restaurants, creative studios and live culture.

For beer travellers, the complex is best understood as a walkable district of taprooms and bars where you can spend an entire evening moving between venues on foot. Põhjala Brewery is the anchor and the most internationally famous name, but it sits alongside several other strong options.

The conversion of Telliskivi from derelict railway complex to creative district happened gradually from around 2010, driven by a combination of cheap rent (the buildings needed renovation), artistic community demand and civic investment. Beer followed culture: the first bars opened to serve the artists, designers and theatre people who were already there. By 2015 the area had a reputation beyond Tallinn. By 2026 it is firmly on the European creative city circuit.

This is the context behind drinking in Telliskivi. You’re not in a purpose-built entertainment district. You’re in a neighbourhood that found its identity organically, and the breweries and taprooms reflect that: they feel real because they are.

Getting there from Old Town takes about 15–20 minutes on foot via Pikk Street and Balti jaam, or five minutes by tram 4 or 5 from Old Town to Balti jaam station. See the Kalamaja and Telliskivi guide for detailed directions.

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Põhjala Brewery: the full picture

Põhjala was founded in 2011 by a group of Estonian homebrewers who believed Baltic countries could produce craft beer with genuine terroir. By 2016 they were winning international medals. By 2026 they are the most decorated Estonian brewery, with gold at the Brussels Beer Challenge and regular appearances on European craft beer “best of” lists.

The brewery occupies a large brick warehouse in Telliskivi, with the taproom — Põhjala Tap — in the front section and the production space behind.

The taproom

Põhjala Tap is open Tuesday–Sunday from noon. The space is industrial-comfortable: bare brick, high ceilings, long wooden tables, the hum of machinery from the brewing area. In summer, the outdoor area fills fast by 17:00.

The tap list rotates but typically covers 20–24 beers. Core range:

• Öö (“Night”) — the signature Imperial Baltic Porter at 10.5% ABV. Deep, complex, with coffee, dark chocolate and mild roast. Served in a 0.2 l tulip glass, €4.50.
• Öö Reserve — oak-aged version, limited release. When available, €6–7 per 0.2 l.
• Põhjala Cellar Series — barrel-aged limited editions, released quarterly. These are the ones to check the Untappd feed for before visiting.
• Tanker Sur — a collaboration dry-hopped sour with Tanker Brewery, available in most seasons.
• Talv (“Winter”) — a seasonal spiced dark ale, available October–December.
• Suvi (“Summer”) — a lighter seasonal saison with Estonian herbs, available May–August.

A 0.5 l pour of the standard range costs €5–6.50. Flights of four 0.2 l pours are available for €12.

Brewery tours

Tours run every Saturday at 13:00. Duration: approximately 90 minutes. Includes access to the production area, a walkthrough of the brewing process from grain to glass, and five tastings covering the core range and at least one Cellar Series beer.

Price: €22 per person. Booking required — the tours sell out, particularly in summer. Book via pohjala.ee.

The tours are guided in English (and Estonian on request). Groups are capped at 20 people. The guide is typically a brewer or senior member of the Põhjala team rather than a generic tour operator.

For a broader guided experience combining Põhjala with other Tallinn craft venues, the Estonian craft beer tasting tour covers multiple breweries and bars with a knowledgeable guide — a good option if you want the full scene in one session.

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Other breweries and taprooms in Telliskivi

Humalate Vabariik (“Hop Republic”)

This multi-tap bar focuses exclusively on Estonian craft. Twelve rotating taps, no imports. The point is to give visitors a comprehensive overview of what Estonian breweries are producing, from Põhjala’s Baltic porters to lighter session ales from smaller producers like Merejõud and Hiisi.

Prices are among the lowest in Telliskivi: €4–4.80 for a 0.5 l pour. The staff are knowledgeable and happy to talk through the tap list. Open daily from 14:00.

F-Hoone

Not a brewery but essential to any Telliskivi beer experience. F-Hoone is the social centre of the complex — a large restaurant and bar that’s been operating in Telliskivi since the complex opened. The beer list covers the Põhjala core range plus rotating Estonian guests. The food (Estonian comfort food with global influences) is genuinely good and the kitchen stays open late.

Book ahead for Friday and Saturday evening. A meal with two beers costs €25–35 per person.

Must Puudel (“Black Poodle”)

A small, serious natural wine and craft beer bar. The beer selection is focused and considered — typically six Estonian drafts and a rotating menu of can and bottle choices. The monthly Tuesday tasting flights are worth planning around (first Tuesday, €12 for six beers).

It gets crowded. There’s no reservation system. Go early (before 20:00) or be prepared to wait.

Sveta

Primarily a live music venue and culture club in the Telliskivi complex, Sveta has a decent craft beer selection on its bar and regularly hosts events that combine live music with craft beer pop-ups. Check their Instagram for the weekly programme.

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The Tallinn Telliskivi bar crawl

For visitors who want a guided evening through the Telliskivi beer scene, the Telliskivi bar crawl with games, drinks and discounts provides a structured introduction to the complex. Unlike Old Town pub crawls, this one stays in the craft beer district and attracts a more beer-focused crowd. A good option if you’re arriving without a group and want a social evening with genuine craft beer content.

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Planning your Telliskivi brewery visit

Best time to go: Thursday–Saturday evenings are the busiest and most atmospheric. Tuesday and Wednesday are quieter — better for a focused Põhjala Tap experience, but some smaller venues may be closed.

How long to allow: A Põhjala tour (Saturday, 13:00) followed by a Telliskivi bar hop can occupy an entire afternoon and evening — roughly 13:00 to 22:00. Standalone taproom visits: allow 90 minutes per venue.

Combine with: The Kalamaja and Telliskivi area has much more than beer — the Telliskivi flea market (weekends), independent design shops and street art are all worth seeing during the day before the bars open properly.

Getting back: Tram 4 or 5 back to the Old Town runs until about 23:30. After that, Bolt is €4–5 to any Old Town hotel.

For the broader craft beer context — Estonian brewery history, what styles to look for, seasonal availability — see the Tallinn craft beer scene guide.

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Estonian craft beer beyond Tallinn

Põhjala and the Telliskivi scene represent one facet of Estonian craft brewing. Several outstanding breweries operate from other Estonian cities and are worth knowing:

Pühaste Brewery (Tartu) — Based in Estonia’s second city, Pühaste focuses on barrel-aged and wild-fermented beers that are technically among the most ambitious in Estonia. Their annual “Pühaste Anniversary” limited release is one of the Baltic region’s most sought-after craft beers. Available in specialist bottle shops in Tallinn (Õllemaania on Vene Street is the most reliable stockist).

Lehe Pruulikoda (Pärnu) — The most consistent producer of everyday drinkable Estonian craft. Their IPA and pale ale are impeccably clean and well-balanced. Widely distributed in Tallinn bars and supermarkets. If you visit Pärnu, the brewery hosts occasional tap takeover events.

Merejõud — A coastal brewery based near Haapsalu in western Estonia. Known for goses (sour ales brewed with sea salt and coriander) and light saisons. Distribution is limited but some Tallinn specialist bars carry their range.

Sori Brewing — A Tallinn-based brewery with a focus on hop-forward ales and New England-style IPAs. Often found as a guest tap in Telliskivi bars. Newer than Põhjala but growing quickly.

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Telliskivi beyond the beer

Visiting Telliskivi solely for the beer is fine, but you’d be missing context. The creative city complex is the result of a broader transformation of Kalamaja from a working-class residential neighbourhood into one of Northern Europe’s more interesting creative districts.

Beyond the bars and taprooms, Telliskivi contains:

• Telliskivi flea market (Telgitur) — Weekends, year-round. The best source of Estonian vintage goods, handmade ceramics, upcycled design and street food in the city.
• Pudel & Aed (“Bottle and Garden”) — A natural wine shop and occasional event space adjacent to the Telliskivi complex.
• Street art — The industrial walls of the railway workshops have accumulated a decade of commissioned and unofficial murals. The back walls along the railway tracks are particularly dense.
• Ülemiste City connection — Telliskivi connects via foot to the broader Põhja-Tallinn district, which has its own emerging creative scene along the waterfront.

Understanding that Telliskivi is a neighbourhood rather than a single venue makes the beer stops more meaningful — each taproom is part of a wider ecosystem.

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What to buy to take home

Põhjala sells bottles and cans at the taproom, including limited Cellar Series releases not available in supermarkets. A mixed six-pack of their core range runs €18–22. The barrel-aged bottles are €12–18 each.

Estonian supermarkets (Rimi, Selver, Prisma) stock a wide range of Põhjala, Tanker and Lehe cans at market prices (€2–3.50 per can). If you’re buying to take home, the supermarket price is better value for the core range — save the taproom budget for limited releases and on-site drafts.

Õllemaania (Vene 4, Old Town) — the specialist bottle shop — has the widest selection of Estonian craft in take-away format, including rare releases from Pühaste and limited Põhjala editions. Open Tuesday–Saturday until 22:00.

Check airline carry-on restrictions if flying. Liquids over 100 ml must go in checked baggage. A 0.44 l can is fine in hold luggage; a 0.75 l wax-sealed Cellar Series bottle less so (wrap well and hope for the best).

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Related guides

• Tallinn craft beer scene — the full guide to Estonian craft beer culture and history
• Best bars in Tallinn — where to drink across all neighbourhoods
• Tallinn nightlife guide — clubs, live music and what comes after the taprooms close
• Kalamaja and Telliskivi destination guide — neighbourhood overview with transport, food and accommodation